Archive for the 'General Gardening' Category

Top Tips For Growing Geraniums In Your Own Garden

Saturday, July 5th, 2008

Growing Geraniums

Geraniums are plants that look good in a bed just by themselves or they even look good if they are mixed in with other annuals. It also makes for an attractive edging plant for the perennial garden. These plants are very versatile and will look good no matter where they are put.

Although the geranium can put up with a little frost, it loves the warm weather. Here are some tips for growing geraniums:

• Light – Most geraniums do well in full sun. That means that they should receive at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.

If the climate you live in is very hot, then you may plant them in an area that is partly shaded. Many geraniums will do quite well in a partly shaded spot, but they will not bloom as prolifically.

• Soil – Geraniums thrive in rich soil that is very well drained. If you add compost to your soil, this will give your plants an extra boost.

• Fertilizer – When you grow geraniums, it is good to note that they are heavy feeders. You should plan on giving them fertilizer at least every two weeks. You may also feed them when you plant them with a time-released fertilizer that will last the entire season.

• Water – When it does not rain, you will have to make sure that you water your geraniums regularly. If you are not sure if you should water, just poke your finger down into the soil. If it is dry at least two inches down, then you had better get out the hose!

• Grooming – You want to keep your plants looking their best by dead heading them and by taking away any dried or discolored leaves. In this way, your geraniums will look great all season!

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More About Butterfly Gardening

Tuesday, June 24th, 2008

When creating a butterfly garden, the possibilities of what to include in your butterfly garden design are endless. Below are some suggestions to help get you started. They are designed to spark the creative process of your mind and get you started on your way to creating a lovely butterfly garden.

Before you even begin your butterfly garden, find out which species of butterflies are in your area. Consider taking an exploratory hike around your location with a butterfly identification book. This may take a little extra time and effort, but the results will be worth it. After you have compiled your list of local butterfly species, be sure to write down in your butterfly garden plan what these particular species of butterflies use for nectar and food plants.

Be sure that your garden is in a location that provides at least six hours of sunlight per day. Butterflies are cold-blooded creatures and therefore do better where they are warm and sheltered. Wind can be a butterfly’s worst enemy so be sure to have plenty of wind protection in your design. You can plant tall shrubs and other plants in order to create a wind break, but a location that avoids heavy winds is even better.
The best of all would be a butterfly garden placed on the sunny side of your home with windbreaks on both the west and east sides, or wherever the prevailing wonds come from in your area. Try and locate your garden close to a window so you can view the butterflies from indoors.

Provide seating outside too. If possible, you could excavate an area and build a stone wall around it. This would create the ideal windbreak for your butterflies. Mmake gravel pathways around your garden to save walking in mud. There are many creative ways for constructing a butterfly garden. Take your time to design a garden that you will enjoy and be proud of.

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Dealing with Barren Trees

Saturday, June 14th, 2008

Dealing with Barren Trees

One of the most frustrating things that can possibly happen to someone who has slaved for hours and hours in growing a fruit tree is the unexplainable barrenness that can sometimes occur when there should be a plethora of fresh fruit. I know this from experience. My neighbors all consider me the gardening guru because of my extensive knowledge. But this is only because gardening has been my passion for years and years, and like a sponge I have accumulated so much information in my mind. My learning has also come from past experiences with failure. For about 5 years after I started planting fruit trees, I did not see a single fruit for all my labor. I was nearly ready to give up, until I met who I think is truly the guru of gardening.

I was in the gardening store, looking for some sort of new fertilizer to put my hope in for my quest to obtain fruit. I don’t know if there was a look of desperation in my eyes, but a kindly old man came up and started speaking with me. He introduced himself as Ralph, and for some reason I opened up to him and told him about all of my difficulties. I’ve never been the type to spill all my problems on anyone who asks, but Ralph seemed like such a nice fellow that I just couldn’t help it. And I’m glad I did, because what he taught me truly helped me to get my fruit trees in gear and start producing.

I learned that generally, the inability to produce can be caused by a number of factors. Sometimes the tree is simply too young; If your tree is less than four years old, you shouldn’t exactly expect it to be producing yet. If it has reached 4 years and you still have seen no sign of fruit, then you should start to consider other factors that might be causing the barrenness.

If the tree is undergoing any type of water stress (this can be poor drainage, too much water, or too little water), then it will have trouble growing. If you suspect this is the case, you should evaluate your own watering techniques and compare them with the needs of the tree to see if you are causing water stress. Also always be on the lookout for any diseases or pest damages. If your tree is constantly being molested by all kinds of little creatures, then you can’t expect it to be lively enough to produce fruit.

If your tree blooms but still doesn’t produce any fruit, this could be because of cold temperatures during the bloom. The coldness damaged the flower bud or damaged the baby fruit. Aesthetically the tree may look fine, but the inside could be damaged beyond any hope of ever seeing fruit. Unfortunately there isn’t much you can do in this case except for wait until next year and hope that it doesn’t happen again.

If the tree’s pollination process has not been fully completed, it could have troubles growing fruit. If you planted different varieties, you may find that the requirements are different than you had originally thought and they were incompatible. In this case you need to replant the correct combinations.

Once I evaluated the conditions of my tree and everything that has occurred in its life, I realized that not only had I cross pollinated slightly incorrectly, but I was also giving my tree too much water. After I fixed these problems, I had learned my lesson and I have not had any trouble bearing fruit since then.

So if you are struggling with a plant that is not being cooperative, you should consult an expert gardener. If you can find a gardening mentor like mine that is willing to teach you everything they know, then you should be able to get your garden on the right track with no problems.

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Planning a Butterfly Garden : Choosing the Right Plants To Attract Butterflies

Sunday, June 8th, 2008

What is butterfly gardening?
Simply put butterfly gardening is the art of growing flowers and plants that will attract these colorful and dainty creatures to your garden. Delight your family and visitors with beautiful butterflies, but be sure to create a safe habitat for them. If you own cats rethink your plans, because it would be a shame to attract these lovely insects to their death.

The design of your butterfly garden is a matter of personal preference. Typical points to consider are the size of your garden and the types of flowers and plants you want to grow. Pick a style of garden that appeals to you, but ensure it also contains the plants and flowers that appeal to the butterflies you wish to attract.

It is important to find out which plants and flowers will attract the species of butterflies. that live in your area. This information can be found at the local library.
To create the kind of environment that they find attractive, you will also need water of some kind. A birdbath will look attractive and keep the butterflies up off the ground, away from stray cats or mischievous puppies. A shallow dish on a post or hung in a tree will do just as well.

When planting your butterfly garden be careful how you coordinate the colors you choose for your flowerbeds. Although butterflies do not care about your choice of color, you don’t want your garden to be a hodgepodge of unrelated colors and textures. Butterflies are attracted to those flowers that have nectar rather than pollen, like honeysuckle, milkweed, summer lilac, Valerian, daisies, Purple Coneflower, Yellow Sage, day lilies and lavender.

Some people find it helpful to draw and color a layout of their butterfly gardening plan to see what the finished product would look like. Keep in mind that warm colors like red and orange are flashy and showy. These colors have a greater impact against a strong green background. Cool colors such as blue and purple are soothing and toned down and would work better with a white contrast to create the look of freshness and brightness. 

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GARDENING’S MOST VALUABLE ADVICE

Sunday, June 8th, 2008

Many people may not be aware that gardening can actually harm the environment.  A large amount of carbon dioxide can be released through tilling the soil.  This contributes to global warming.  When you cultivating and compacting the soil, destroys good fungi.  Fertilizers like nitrogen and manure often leach out of the soil and pollute the water you drink.

Global warming

Did you know that the earth’s soil gives out carbon dioxide in the atmosphere 10 times more than all human activity?  This comes from the pill bugs, microbes, fungi and worms when they breathe, digest food and then die. Although in the past plants have been capable of absorbing carbon dioxide caused by small-scale tillages, this isn’t the case nowadays. 
The increase of the globe’s average temperature is because of the carbon dioxide the soil emits when tilled. The good news is that tilling can be minimized by mulching or sheet composting.

Good Fungi

In untilled soil, there is beneficial fungi known as the vesicular-arbuscular-mycorrhizae or VAM for short. VAM actually forms a symbiotic relationship with plants.  Their filaments increase root hairs and provide nutrients to the plant.  They give out zinc, copper, potassium and phosphorus.  Plants provide carbohydrates for the fungi in return.  It is possible to grow a garden without tilling the soil at all by mulching heavily until the soil is soft and friable.

Surplus Nitrogen

Many gardeners waste nitrogen and manures; farmers do otherwise. Farmers only need a quarter to a third of nitrogen to mix with an inch of compost, horse, or cow manure.  Kate Burroughs of Sebastopol California, uses the same rule for her home-grown lettuce and sweet corns. When it comes to broccoli and pear trees, farmers only need a small amount.  Notice that gardeners apply larger amounts of compost and manure than farmers. Obviously, they are not only wasting their fertilizer but also their money. 

The best gardening advice that can be given to those concerned is to do all things with moderation. Keep in mind that too little and too much of something is not healthy. This is the most valuable advice one can have in gardening.

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Growing Trees for Shade

Saturday, May 24th, 2008

If you are currently trying to plant trees in order to shade your garden, you will probably want something that grows very fast and provides plenty of shade. With the many types of trees available, you will have no problem finding a variety that will grow extremely fast and provide all the shade that your garden needs to survive. There are also many things you can do to speed up the growth of trees.

Generally trees are separated into two categories: long lived and short lived. If you are just looking for some temporary shade for your garden, you should stick to a short lived tree. But if you plan on keeping it for years, go for a long lived tree.

If you decide on a short lived plant, you are probably looking for something with speedy growth. This means the root system will be particularly aggressive, so be sure not to place it near any septic tanks or other deep rooted plants. If the roots have plenty of area to grow, then they will shoot out extremely fast and your tree will take off in growth. Your placement should also be based on the tree’s relative position to the area you are wanting to shade. You should keep it to the western or southern sides for maximum shading.

Preparing your soil well for the shade trees can be the best way to enhance the plant growth speed. The bigger hole you dig for the root ball, the better. Also when you dig out the soil from the hole, you should work it over well before you replace it. This will allow the roots to penetrate through the soil better. If you mix in all your fertilizer and nutrients to the soil before you replace it, you will end up with a superior tree. Also try to use organic materials as mulch. Bark and any branches or twigs work well for this, and will encourage the quick growth.

When you buy your shade tree, it will usually come with the root ball balled up and in a burlap bag. It might also be grown in a container or simply with bare roots. If you get a tree in a burlap bag, you should plant it anywhere between fall and early spring. Trees grown in containers are ok to plant at almost any time of the year. If the tree just has bare roots, then the ideal planting time is anytime in winter and early spring. If you buy a tree that has been grown in a container, make sure that the roots are not constricted by the container. This will usually cause the roots to go in circles underground after you plant it. After you buy the tree and before you plant it, be sure to constantly add moisture to it.

The ideal planting process would include putting it in the ground at the proper depth, and replacing the soil without compressing it too much. Immediately after planting, you should give the tree its first watering before putting the layer of mulch on. You should always use organic mulch, and have a 2 or 3 inch layer of it at the base of your tree.

You should always use nitrogen fertilizer during the first segment of the tree’s life. Simply follow the instructions on the label in order to find out exactly how much to apply and when to apply it. Never apply too much fertilizer while the tree is young. You should usually wait until it has been established for about a year. The fertilizer that you do add should be sufficiently watered down.

If you are trying to grow a tree speedily, there are many more things that you need to consider. However, with proper planning you can create the perfect environment for the tree to spring right up and provide you with plenty of shade within months.

 

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Choosing a Garden that is Perfect for You and Your Lifestyle

Saturday, May 17th, 2008

If you’re thinking about starting a garden, the first thing you need to consider is what type of garden you will have. There are many different choices and often it can be hard to pick just one, but hopefully you can narrow it down. But by narrowing it down, you’ll make the gardening experience easier on yourself and the plants. If all your plants are similar, then it shouldn’t be very hard to care for them all. So here are some of the main garden ideas for you to choose from.

If you’re just looking for something to look nice in your yard, you’ll want a flower garden. These are usually filled with perennial flower. Perennial flowers are flowers which stay healthy year-round. They’re basically weeds because of their hardiness, only nice looking. Different areas and climates have different flowers which are considered perennials. If you do a quick internet search for your area, you can probably find a list of flowers that will bring your flower garden to life. These usually only require work in the planting stage - after that, the flower take care of themselves. The only downside to this is that you don’t have any product to show for it.

Another choice for your garden is to have a vegetable garden. These usually require a little more work and research than a flower garden, but can be much more rewarding. No matter what time of the year it is, you can usually find one vegetable that is still prospering. That way you can have your garden be giving you produce almost every day of the year! When starting a vegetable garden, you should build it with the thought in mind that you will be adding more types of veggies in later. This will help your expandability. Once all your current crops are out of season, you won’t be stuck with almost nowhere to put the new crops. A vegetable garden is ideal for someone who wants some produce, but doesn’t want to devote every waking hour to perfecting their garden (see below.)

One of the more difficult types of gardens to manage is a fruit garden. It’s definitely the most high-maintenance. When growing fruits, many more pests will be attracted due to the sweetness. You not only have to deal with having just the right dirt and fertilizer, you have to deal with choosing a pesticide that won’t kill whoever eats the fruits. Your fruit garden will probably not produce year-round. The soil needs to be just right for the plants to grow, and putting in another crop during its off-season could be disastrous to its growth process. If you’re willing to put lots of work into maintaining a garden, then a fruit garden could be a good choice for you.

So now that I’ve outlined some of the main garden types that people choose, I hope you can make a good decision. Basically, the garden type comes down to what kind of product you want, and how much work you want to put into it. If you’re looking for no product with no work, go with a flower garden. If you want lots of delicious product, but you are willing to spend hours in your garden each day, then go for a fruit garden. Just make sure you don’t get into something you can’t handle!

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Protecting Trees with Bird Netting

Monday, May 12th, 2008

If you have a problem with birds, you have probably tried many solutions. Some of the most popular include plastic animals, scarecrows, wind chimes, or highly reflective tape. All of these things can do a great job of reducing bird problems. I have quite a few cherry trees in my backyard, and I used to struggle a lot with birds. After I applied all of these solutions, my problem went almost completely away. Unfortunately, the solution only lasted a few months.

Apparently, birds have a natural tendency to get bolder as time goes by. While at first my scarecrow scared them senseless, now I look outside and see them sitting on his shoulder. And munching on cherries from my tree. Those insolent little fiends! I’m not saying I mind birds. I love having them around my yard. But you see, I’ve already designated one tree specifically for allowing birds to eat off of. But it seems that birds can’t be content with what they’re given. They always feel the need to go over to my own trees when there is a tree just for them that doesn’t have any scary things around it.

I saw many gardening stores marketing a type of bird netting. I decided to use it. Bird netting is basically a giant net that you throw over the entire tree. The holes are about one half of an inch wide. I purchased enough of this to cover one whole tree. It was quite a hassle to install, but it definitely worked after that. I didn’t have any more problems with birds taking cherries from that tree. But one day I woke up and made my daily rounds. On that day, I found 2 birds caught in the netting that had been choked to death. I felt absolutely terrible. I buried the birds and immediately took down that netting. I didn’t want to protect my tree at the cost of the birds’ lives! Sure, I’ll kill off a few bugs, but birds are a little too nice for me.

For a while I felt too guilty to prevent the birds from eating any more. I thought that I would make it up to them by letting them feast on my cherries. I even took down my scarecrow. But a few months later I saw something in a fabric store that made me rethink my generosity. Almost every fabric store sells a material called “tulle”. It is very fine netting with holes too small for any bird to fit its beak or head into. While it is easy to find, it is also extremely cheap. Buying enough to cover one tree ended up costing less than half of what it cost for the lethal bird netting.

I installed the tulle onto my tree (I’ll admit it was a lot harder to install than the bird netting was. I had to attach several large pieces together at the seams) and watched it for a day. I wanted to keep an eye on it every second, so that if a bird got caught I could quickly help it out. Fortunately, no bird ever got caught. Tulle is a much safer and cheaper alternative to bird netting, and I suggest it if you have any problems with birds. Just remember to let them have at least one tree for themselves! Sharing with birds is an essential part of being a good gardener.

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Wear Gloves; Healthy hands are the Gardener’s Best Tools

Sunday, May 4th, 2008

Healthy hands are the Gardener’s Best Tools

Here are the major reasons why one should consider getting a pair of trusty gardening gloves:

Gloves protect your hands from blisters, thorns and cuts while doing rough work like digging or pruning in the garden. Investing in one or more pairs of quality gloves is a good decision.

Here are some tips on how to choose the pair that will suit you best:  
1. Look for quality leather gloves with a cloth back; this will let the gloves breathe and keep your hands dry, cool and comfortable.

2. If mud bothers you, select rubber gloves with cotton lining.

3. When spraying pesticides or chemicals choose gloves that are made from neoprene. Gloves made from latex or any type of plastic may not offer the best protection.

4. When pruning roses, use gloves that reach up to the arms.

5. If you usually operate large garden machinery, buy gloves in brown instead of red as the latter may dye your hands.

6. Light cotton or even fingerless gloves may be useful for transplanting seedlings. They will allow more dexterity and so help to prevent the tiny roots from being crushed.

7. And of course, make sure that the gloves you buy actually fit your hands. If you have small hands, try the children’s gardening section. there’s nothing worse than trying to garden is gloves that are too big.

Your gloves must be comfortable as well as give protection to best serve your gardening needs.

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Growing Organic Berries

Wednesday, April 30th, 2008

Growing Organic Berries

Growing organic berries is a very popular choice for most organic gardeners, especially in climates with good rainfall. Berries are mostly hardy and will grow without need of pesticides or chemical fertilizers, making them a great choice for the larger organic garden.

To suit the spirit of the organic garden, choose berries that are native to your country or a similar climate, and keep as close as possible to the wild variety. Many cultivated varieties have been hybridized to produce large crops of heavy, watery fruit which means more profits for the large-scale grower but has very little of the flavor of the wild fruit. Stay away from these commercial varieties where you can.

Blackberry

Thorny wild blackberry bushes grow so well in the right climate that many people struggle to keep brambles out of their gardens. This is a very invasive plant and once introduced it is hard to control, with long trailing branches and far-spreading suckers.

The cultivated blackberry is almost thornless and non-invasive but the fruit does not have the same sharp sweet flavor.

Blueberry

Choose your variety carefully - there are many of them, and some are much more flavorsome than others. The two main strains of blueberry are Highbush (growing to about 6 ft tall) and Rabbiteye, but within each of those categories there are several different varieties. Highbush types will do better in cooler climates with regular frosts. Rabbiteye can handle hotter drier summers and heavier, less acid soil.

You can expect a small crop from the second year, steadily increasing until year five onward when the bush is mature. At that time it will start to need annual pruning.

Blueberries can also produce a wonderful display of fall colors. Take this into account when you are selecting your site.

Cranberry

The cranberry is a very nutritious, sour-tasting fruit with well-documented health benefits especially for urinary tract infections.  It needs acidic, peaty soil. Like strawberries, cranberries grow close to the ground. The fruit makes good jelly, and you can also add it to juices, smoothies and desserts.

Chilean Cranberry

Despite its name, this plant is not related to the cranberry. It grows as an evergreen shrub producing a good crop of small sweet red berries with a flavor similar to strawberries. It is hardy, surviving frost well. It could make a very productive, delicious and unusual addition to your organic garden. Planting several bushes in a row will create a decorative low hedge.

The Chilean cranberry has many different common names including uni, murta and murtilla in Chile (its native country), New Zealand cranberry or tazziberry in Australasia, and Chilean guava. Look for the botanical names Ugni molinae, Myrtus ugni and Eugenia ugni.

Currants

Black currants, red currants and white currants all grow as bushes. They are very nutritious fruit with black currants in particular containing high levels of vitamin C.

Black currant bushes are not attractive and do not respond well to pruning, but the fruit has a stronger taste. Red and white currants can be pruned, even into a shaped topiary display, although topiary could look a little out of place in an organic garden.

The long sprigs of red fruit make the red currant very attractive at harvest time. White currants are more unusual. If you have enough space, mix red and white currant bushes, or even all three. The resulting fruit will make a delicious, healthy and very attractive mixture of berries.

Gooseberry

Gooseberry bushes were once a popular feature of many gardens in England but with the increase in other sweeter imported berries they are becoming less common. They can be an acid fruit unless picked very ripe, so home-grown gooseberries that you can eat right away are much better than store-bought. They are usually green but some varieties are almost yellow when ripe. There is also a red variety.

Raspberry

Raspberries are grown on canes and require a lot of care but will pay you back well with large crops of delicious fruit. There are several varieties, each suited to a different climate, so take advice on what is best for your garden. Expect to spend time tying branches, dealing with suckers, mulching, watering and getting scratched.

Raspberries will not flourish near plants of the nightshade family (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants or peppers) or in soil where those plants have been grown in the last couple years.

Strawberry

The wild strawberry is a tiny fruit with a strong, intensely sweet flavor that can grow well in sunny, rocky, well-drained sites, for example between the stones of a path.

Cultivated strawberries require more work but can produce a lot of fruit. For an organic garden you will probably want an old variety such as Captain Cook with medium to small sized flavorsome berries, closer to wild strawberries than the huge watery fruit that we often find in stores.

Managing Berries In Your Garden

Birds love most varieties of berries and will steal them before they ripen so if you want a good crop, you will have to cover your bushes with net while the berries are ripening. Strawberries are especially vulnerable and you may want to enclose them in a bird-proof cage.

When planting, choose your sites with care. Most berries prefer a sunny spot to ripen and develop their fullest flavor. You will want a place that is sheltered without being in constant shade. Do not plant bushes too close to a fence or hedge - you will need to be able to get all around them to harvest your growing organic berries, without being scratched to pieces!

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